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What Makes A Good Chefs Knife? German Chefs Knife, French Chefs Knife, Japanese Chefs Knife? Does A Quality Handle Matter? We Help You Decide! Should I Care? What Style Chef's Knife Is Best For Me? For most people, the chef's knife, or Kitchen Knife , is an indispensable tool for preparing food. The Best French, German, or Japanese Chef's Knife is the one that's right for you! It can peel, slice, dice, chop, and help get any meal ready for cooking in a timely and efficient manner. But why is this workhorse so good at so many tasks? Let's explore. You DESERVE A Good Chefs Knife- "The kitchen knife, cook's knife, chef's knife, santoku, or gyuto is the most used single tool in the house for many of us. To be continually disappointed by dull, cheap knives is something I can't understand. If you cook for yourself or your family, you DESERVE a great kitchen knife!" -Keith Nix It takes a bit of thought and design, testing and planning, to produce a good chef's knife style. The edge needs enough upward curve, or "belly," to facilitate the rocking chop motion familiar to most professional knife users. There should also be a small flat on the edge profile back toward the heel or handle end to let you know that you've reached the end of this chop stroke and are ready to begin another. The quality handle should nestle in the palm of your hand with a little swell to provide a firm grip. It should also give a solid hold when using the pinch grip, my favorite! And, of course, there must be enough clearance under the handle so your knuckles don't bump the cutting board! There are three major schools of thought, and styles of chefs knives(or kitchen knives, or French knives). They have some similarities and a few differences. Read on: ​ GERMAN Chef's Knife-- The German style of chef's knife is thick and heavy, with the edge curve (belly) beginning somewhere behind the midpoint of the blade length. These knives are for heavier tasks and they're built tough. FRENCH Chef's Knife-- French chefs knives are somewhat lighter and thinner, with the belly beginning well forward of the midpoint of blade length. This style of knife was so common in French restaurant kitchens that the entire style is often just called a French Knife or Kitchen Knife. JAPANESE Chef's Knife-- Japanese knives are thinner than their European brethren and have slightly different profiles and names. Two styles might come to mind when comparing to chef's knives, though. The Gyuto is similar in length, not so tall, with only a slight belly toward the tip. The Santoku has a gentle curve to the entire length of the blade, much like a chair rocker. Typical of Japanese kitchen knives are the non-stainless carbon steel chefs knives with very high hardness, 63-65HRc. Many mass-produced chef's knives from MAJOR knife making companies gloss over the type of steel they use. Sure, they will tell you "premium stainless", or "high carbon", but almost never the exact composition, or even the hardness they ran it to. The steel, and the heat treatment of that steel, are forever the heart of your knife. You have the right to know WHICH steel, and WHAT HARDNESS it is. All of my stainless steel chef's knives are made of AEB-L Stainless steel (unless you request otherwise), developed for the razor blade industry and sold by Uddeholm Sweden. It has a very fine grain and carbide structure, good stain resistance, EXCELLENT toughness, and can easily reach working hardnesses of 63HRc and more for kitchen use, which is my goal. With a manageable cost per blade, good edge retention and very easy to sharpen, I believe AEB-L to be the right choice for most kitchen knives. Having said that, my duty as a Custom Knife Maker is to craft the knife you want, and that is why we offer a variety of steels. We offer three high carbon steels, two high carbon stainless steels, and three tool steels from which to choose for the home kitchen or professional environment! Included are AEB-L, CPM MagnaCut, CPM M4, A2, D2, 52100, 80CRV2, and 26C3. One of the major benefits of custom made knives is simply this. All knives sold by Keith Nix Knives are cryogenically treated with Liquid Nitrogen. Learn why HERE! The great and world renowned bladesmith Devin Thomas says this on AEB-L: From Devin Thomas at devinthomas.com: ​ "Few know what AEB-L steel is, and those that do, only have heard that it is similar to 440B or 440A. The only similarities between AEB-L and 440B or 440A is the amount of carbon. The fact that AEB-L has only 12.8% chromium by weight compared to the 16-17% in 440A and 440B makes the steels quite different. AEB-L is more similar to a stainless 52100 than 440A. A copy of AEB-L called 13C26 is made by Sandvik. AEB-L naturally forms what is called the K2 carbide, the harder of the two chromium carbides, compared to the K1 carbide, which is formed in steels such as 440C. The K2 carbide is about 79 on the Rockwell C scale, compared to 72 for the K1 carbide. Through proper heat treatment, AEB-L has fine, evenly distributed K2 carbides. AEB-L lies almost perfectly on what is called the "Carbon Saturation Line", which means that all of the carbides formed are precipitated carbides, not primary carbides like are formed in 440C, and there is more carbon and a similar amount chromium in solution as compared to 440C. Primary carbides are very large. So, through a balanced composition, AEB-L has excellent toughness, edge retention, workability, ease of sharpening, and ease of polishing. AEB-L was developed for the razor blade industry, is a stainless steel capable of high working hardness and extremely keen edges. An air hardening steel, it is one of the toughest stainless steels available. Cryogenic treatment in liquid nitrogen adds to strength and hardness." I make my knives with a gentle "soft drink bottle" shaped handle I designed, with a palm swell to fit into your hand and help with grip. It's definitely easier to hold on to, and easier to know where the knife is in your hand. For home chefs I use your choice of wood for aesthetics, as the wood adds warmth and another layer of beauty to the work. The wood has been stabilize d, or impregnated with a polymer resin under alternating vacuum and pressure, then baked at a specific temperature to harden the resin. This makes the wood far less likely to swell and shrink with changes in moisture and humidity. All my handcrafted kitchen knives can be customized to a length suitable for your style. We're far more concerned with making a knife that fits your hand, than holding onto to some time worn tradition of what a French Knife or a Gyuto should look like! I've made chef's knives out to 10", and as short as 6". Petite Chef's Knives are available from 5.5"to 7" and from 2" tall to 1.5" tall. We WILL accommodate your needs! All custom made kitchen knife handles are finished with a blend of oils and hardeners designed originally for gunstock use, called Tru-Oil. It is a hard use finish to further protect the wood and define the unique grain and colors of your handle. Finally, I believe the difference between a good chef's knife and a GREAT chef's knife is in large part dependent on the thickness of the blade itself. Chef's knives are slicers, and as such should have a thin blade, ground and sharpened to a low angle for parting veggies and meats with little effort and great precision. Our Japanese knifemaking brethren are so right about this aspect of knifemaking. We offer many styles of kitchen knives at Keith Nix Knives including paring knives, boning knives, cleavers, carving and slicing blades, Japanese knives, and petite chefs knives. Take a look at the online store now, Just click here! ​ More FREE Learning! Click here to learn about knife steel properties ! Click here to learn about knife types and styles. Knife Safety Tips How Your Handle Is Made Kitchen Knife Buying Guide ​ Order Your Heirloom Knife from Keith Nix Knives Shop Now! ​ keithnix@gmail.com 828-337-7836 Thanks for reading, Keith Keith Nix Kniv es .

Contact Keith Nix Knives Speak To Keith Directly I believe it's important to be available to talk or chat, whether you're a doctor, an auto mechanic, or a custom knife maker. If you have a question about a custom chef's knife, our handle materials, or my knife sharpening methods, no matter the reason, you can contact me anytime! Call, text, or email with the info below! 828.337.7836 keithnixknives@gmail.com 244 Cragmont Rd Black Mountain NC 28711 DIRE CTIONS Contact Us First Name Last Name Email Write a message Join our mailing list Email First Name Last Name Subscribe Thanks for subscribing! Submit Thanks for submitting!

Keith Nix Knives FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions Knife Making FAQ KEITH NIX KNIVES FAQ-- "How do I get knives sharpened at Keith Nix Knives?" Custom knife makers are asked a lot of questions. Let's face it: unless you're a knife maker, you don't know the process. Some questions I've answered often enough to think we need this Knife Making FAQ page to save us both some time. I want you to be informed, and it's fun and enjoyable for me to talk with a customer who is really interested in how their knife will be made! However, I'm a very slow two or three-finger typist, and trading texts or emails isn't a face-to-face conversation. So, if I can answer the most common questions once for everyone, that's a good thing! If you don't see the question you wish answered, please take a moment and contact me, and "Ask The Knife Maker" Dive in now and learn how to order a knife and how they're made. Learn about caring for your knives, how to get free sharpening, and how to order personalized knives. We can fill you in on heat treatment, our philosophy on customer support and customer service. And straight up right now, we NEVER turn scrap metal into knives! Are Keith Nix Knives Made in the USA? Yes! All Keith Nix Knives are made here in Black Mountain, NC, using new, KNOWN steel purchased from USA based suppliers. We purchase bars of steel up to 6' long, and of the appropriate width and thickness. We then cut these bars into the correct lengths for the knives we are making. After that we profile, heat treat, grind bevels, polish, and apply the knife handle, and give it the final sharpening before pickup or shipping. Additionally, we purchase the steel we use from American distributors. Who is Keith Nix? Keith is a Black Mountain native, machinist/tool maker, former Internet Sales Manager, and knife maker. He grew up in Black Mountain, and has roamed these beautiful Southern Appalachian Mountains and valleys and worked here all his life. You can read more about his roots in WNC here: https://www.keithnixknives.com/about-keith-nix Or enjoy this short video made by the Carolina Photo Journalism Workshop(Yes, THAT Carolina!!) How long is your backlog? I am currently delivering knives in 28-32 weeks. No, I can't fairly put your blade in front of another. No, a cash bonus won't buy more hours in a day or a spot closer to the front of the line. Yes, I absolutely understand {insert holiday} is right around the corner, it's why I'm so busy! In my wildest dreams, I never expected this level of interest in my work. I'm grateful to everyone who has made Keith Nix Knives a success! I would love to make you a knife or knives, but I ask for your patience. It will be rewarded... Can I bring my own design and commission you to make it? Generally the answer will be yes, within these guidelines: I won't knowingly copy the work of another knife maker. I won't make "fantasy pieces" that have no practical use. I won't make fighting knives, daggers, swords, and such. I make practical, USEABLE cutlery for kitchen and outdoor use. Beyond that the door is open! Do You Require a Deposit? No. NO! I have seen websites of other makers in this area who charge as much as 50% of the price of their product as a NON-refundable deposit just to put you on the books for a custom blade. I refuse to do that. I can't imagine taking your money and then you lose your job, or someone gets sick, or your car breaks down, and you can't complete a transaction you and I initiated 3-5 months ago. So I'm supposed to kick you while you're down and keep your deposit? no. No. NO! NO. I don't take deposits from anyone. A couple of people have prepaid me, and I didn't like the feeling of "owing" someone something. It is stressful enough to be 24-28 weeks behind. I WILL NOT hold your money that long. You may pay on delivery, or walk away if you don't like my work. The only exception I'll make to that is if you request an exotic, really expensive steel, sheath, or handle material, I'll ask you to pay for those materials in advance, or provide them yourself. Are you able to personalize my knife with a name or date? Yes. Personalization is as easy as choosing the phrase, name, or date you wish to have engraved on your custom knife. There is a small upcharge for the service. Laser etching is only available through me on knives that I have made, but I can refer you to my provider... What makes a good hunting knife? A hunting knife is a tool, in fact a multi-tool. Typical classic designs try to make the hunting knife a tool to gut and clean a carcass, skin it, break it down into primal cuts, debone the primals, and fillet a few trout for dinner, after the knife is used to process enough firewood to last all night. Of course no knife will do all that well, and it makes no sense to even try to make one I do make a "classic" looking hunting knife(left), I make it thin enough to actually serve as a knife, and not a small axe like object for splitting firewood! It's a simple 4-4.5" drop point, with a handle that fits just right. I offer another blade, smaller and more agile than a standard hunter. A friend commissioned this blade and we designed it together, called "The Pig Skinner". He uses this 3" blade to skin the feral hogs he hunts in SC. A third hunting knife I offer is a 5" or 7" fillet/skinning/boning/camp kitchen knife. Another great friend and I designed this one, around his love of an old fillet knife to skin deer. It's thin and flexible similar to a fillet knife with enough heft to still be useful skinning large game. It would also be great in the camp kitchen! My thinking is that a "hunting knife" should actually be a "Hunting Set", with three or four more specialized knives to do all the tasks needed to move game from the field to the frying pan or freezer. Do you have a need for a specialized hunting knife? Let's talk about it and get it built for you! Call Anytime, Keith 828-337-7836 Are handmade knives better than "store bought"? The short answer is yes, usually. The long answer is a little more complicated. A custom knife maker has the ability to give more attention to details like custom heat treating protocols, cryogenic treatment, special precise grinds, and hand sharpening. Plus you get to choose your own handle material! These details ensure you a harder, tougher, sharper, better looking knife right out of the box. At major knife production facilities, quicker is often better, and the corporation won't go to the time and expense to cryogenically treat or hand sharpen your knife with a progression of stones. They often deliberately make knives thicker and heavier than necessary to avoid warranty claims. Their sharpening procedures are designed more for speed than accuracy. At Keith Nix Knives, I heat treat every blade myself. Every blade is double or triple tempered AFTER spending a few hours in liquid nitrogen at -320F. I hand sand the finish on every blade, epoxy and pin the handle, hand sand the handle to 2500 grit, and apply the finish myself. If it doesn't meet my standards, I start over. It is this kind of attention to detail that gives the custom knife maker the edge over mass produced, assembly line blades. . How do I order a knife? Preferably the process starts with a phone call, text, or email. If you like one of the styles on the store page, we only need to pick a steel and handle material, and I'll get you on the list! If you want a "made from scratch" custom knife, we should spend some time getting the design right! Get in touch soon! I can be reached at: PHONE/TEXT: 828-337-7836 EMAIL: keithnixknives@gmail.com Who is the knife maker in Black Mountain? That would be Keith Nix Knives. We make knives from raw steel and wood, and professionally sharpen your existing knives. Where is Keith Nix Knives? Keith Nix Knives is located at 244 Cragmont Rd in Black Mountain NC. We're just a little west of downtown, and less than a half mile from Lake Tomahawk! How do I order a knife from Keith Nix Knives? It's really simple. Just call, text, or email Keith and have a short conversation with him about your knife, how you use it, what you like, and the kind of handle you envision. Keith Can be reached at: Call or text: 828-337-7836 Email: keithnixknives@gmail.com How should I take care of my new knife? That's a great question and one I've paid extra attention to. It's so important I devoted an entire page to Custom Knife Care! Click the box to visit the page. May I choose the steel for my knife? Most of the time, yes, absolutely! What I won't do is make you a knife from a leaf spring off great grandpa's old Model T. I use only new known steel for knives. When we discuss your knife and agree on price, I'll quote your knife in the steel of your choice. I have chosen the steels I use for their well balanced characteristics, machinability, and of course cost. While steel "A" might add a cost of $10 to your blade, steel "B" might add a cost of $110. There truly is that much difference! What is hardness and why does it matter? WHAT IS HARDNESS?-- First, let's clear up a common misconception- in steels, hardness has nothing to do with stiffness, and vice versa. A steel part may have a high or low hardness, but it will always have the same stiffness. To make a knife more flexible, it is necessary to thin the blade so we're actually bending less steel. Hardness happens when a steel is heated above a transformation temperature and changes to a phase called Austenite. On the atomic scale carbon and iron interact in a different way in different phases. Austenite has a much higher capacity for carbon in its crystalline lattice than room temperature ferrite. When rapidly cooled, this richer carbon relationship is "locked" into the steel and a new phase is created called Martensite. This new martensite is much harder, stronger, and more brittle than previous states the steel has been in. It is also under enormous internal stress. That hardness translates to more strength and better edge holding for you, to a point. All knives must be "tempered" as part of their heat treat protocol. The blades must be reheated to some lower temperature specific to the steel to relieve these stresses and slightly soften the knife. Only then will it be a trustworthy kitchen companion! There are several ways to measure the hardness of hardened steel, but the most common is the Rockwell C test. This test measures the depth of penetration of a diamond cone under 150Kg(330.693 lbs) load. While I know what my heat treating recipes should produce, testing the hardness of every blade guarantees that human error and failure of my ovens or cryogenic quench have been eliminated. How do you heat treat steel to make it hard for a custom knife?? That's a really good question, and the answer is different for every steel I work with. There are some basic steps though, that apply to nearly all steels. Read about them in the link to the Keith Nix Knives Free Learning blog post about heat treating! Can you make me a custom carbon steel chef's knife? I sure can, and would be happy to do it. The carbon steels I offer have an excellent balance of properties and are capable of supporting the thin, fine edge needed in the kitchen. The carbon steels I have in stock are A2, 52100, and 26C3. Either would make an excellent chef's knife. Read about each by clicking on the steel name! Why do you offer so many different steels? Each steel I offer has a different set of characteristics and properties. Some are tougher, some offer a little higher working hardness, some have better edge retention or abrasion resistance, some offer better stain or rust resistance. Each steel in my inventory has a good balance of properties, but each is better than the others in at least one area that is important to knives. So having a selection of steels allows me to tailor your knife to your needs, rather than saying "My knives are made from XYZ steel, because it is the best at EVERYTHING!" Which would be a lie. Are forged knives better/harder/stronger than stock removal knives? Some people think so, but this is mostly a myth, and there's scientific proof. Let's talk about "edge packing" as an example. This is where the knife smith hand forges and "cold forges" the bevels in the knife to "pack the steel", or make it denser at the edge. Those same smiths will brag about their multi-step normalizing and grain refinement cycles, where they alternately heat and then slowly cool their just forged blade to reduce stresses introduced by forging, thus eliminating the "packed" edge and returning the steel primarily to its original atomic state. Moreover, beating steel with a hammer, hot or cold, doesn't pack the atoms closer together. The "work hardening" phenomenon is a different mechanical state, which is also eliminated by normalizing and grain refinement in subsequent heating cycles. When knife steel is made at the foundry, it is molten, poured into a mold, and becomes a cast ingot. It could be round or rectangular, but it is always many times larger than the finished product. After that, the ingot is reheated and forged either by presses or rolling mills from a thickness of several inches down to the 1/4 inch and less used by us in the knife industry. So the steel for your knife has been forged and reduced many times more at the foundry than the typical bladesmith would do. Additionally, there are many things that can go bad in a forged knife. Forging too hot or too cold can ruin a piece of steel forever. Scale and other impurities can be accidentally driven into the steel, creating "inclusions", stress risers, micro cracks, and weak spots. A coal or propane forge heat treatment at the wrong temperature can never bring out the best of any steel. And it's virtually impossible to heat treat tool steels and stainless steels in a forge without MULTIPLE YEARS of experience. There are other reasons, none of which have anything to do with trained journeyman and master smiths who know what they are doing and do it well. A final fact about the very best/strongest/hardest knife. Regardless of the steel your blade is made from, several things need to happen. First, the steel has to be in the proper state before it is austenitized (hardened). The steel could require a normalizing cycle, then a grain refinement cycle or two if it is a simple carbon steel. This generally places the steel in a fine pearlite structure if done correctly. A DET anneal after grain refinement creates a structure of finely spheroidized carbides. For optimum toughness and heat treatment response, temperature control is critical. A pre quench or temper anneal can help refine grain size and increase toughness for tool steels and air hardening steel types. Smiths do not typically forge these steels, but a few have the knowledge, equipment, and ability to do it correctly. My favorite reference, Dr. Larrin Thomas, has a few words to say about it, and his father Devin (Devin Thomas Damascus), is one of the finest bladesmiths in the world: "Forged vs. Stock Removal Blades at Knife Steel Nerds" Why Do You Use Liquid Nitrogen in Your Process? The short answer is it makes your knife stronger and harder with only a slight reduction in toughness. The long answer is a little more complex. I wrote about liquid nitrogen and why I use it in this blog post. Check it out for a more in-depth answer" "Why Cryo Treat Knives?" What will you use to make the handle of my knife? I'll use the material you choose! And to help you choose we've written a page about different handle materials. You can read it here: https://www.keithnixknives.com/handle-materials How do I get knives sharpened at Keith Nix Knives? It's simple really. Just call, text, or email Keith to let him know you need sharpening. He can tell you how to drop off your knives and how long it will take to get them back. Keith can be reached here: Call or text: 828-337-7836 Email: keithnixknives@gmail.com How do you sharpen knives? Because I make knives, I have a lot of equipment and tools specialized for putting that first, "perfect" hand finished edge on your custom knife, so why not offer sharpening service to individuals and businesses? I've written extensively about sharpening in my blog, so just follow this link for the in-depth answer: How I Sharpen Your Knife https://www.keithnixknives.com/how-i-sharpen-page Professional sharpening services are available in Black Mountain, Asheville, Marion, and surrounding area!! Can you sharpen my scissors? Yes, I can! I have an attachment to hold shears and scissors on the Hapstone fixed angle sharpener. This enables me to set and hold an exact, precision angle as I sharpen scissors! When you sharpen my knives, will they stay sharp longer?" The short answer is no. That is the short answer for every knife sharpener out there no matter what they say. My sharpening protocol cannot change the steel or the heat treatment of a knife, or the inherent edge retention of that steel your knife is made from, or your care of the knife, or your habits of use and storage. However, edge geometry plays a small part in edge retention. When I sharpen your knives, I make sure the "thickness behind the edge" is appropriate for the knife and its intended use, and the angle of the apex, or edge, is appropriate as well. This greatly affects the "keenness" of the knife. So while the edge of your knife will deteriorate in the same amount of time it did, there's a possibility your knife will FEEL sharper for longer because I thinned those first few thousandths of an inch of your blade for you! Contrary to what others might say, there is no real magic in sharpening knives. It is science... Can you sharpen my knives if I bring them by today? If we have previously discussed that you'll be bringing your knives to me for same day professional sharpening service, then yes, I'll do them today, if you are able to keep your appointment time. If it's 5:00PM and I don't recognize your name, the answer is generally no. Proper knife sharpening takes time and cannot be rushed without potential damage to the steel your knives are made from. I will help if I can. But, please be considerate. I promise you I will. What Does Professional Knife Sharpening Cost Near Me? What Does Professional Knife Sharpening Cost Near You? Knife Sharpening In Black Mountain Fair Pricing- Full-Service Sharpening Every Knife receives this attention: 1) A full inspection of your Knife to check for cracks in the steel and other safety issues. 2) Measurement of "thickness behind the edge," the key metric in keenness. 3) Edge thinning is usually 10-12 degrees per side for kitchen knives and higher for heavy-use blades. 4) Final HAND sharpening, on a fixed angle sharpener (Hapstone), at a final sharpening angle appropriate for the Knife, its use, and the steel quality it is made from. We utilize a progression of diamond sharpening stones from 80 to 2000 and a 3000-grit ceramic for final polish and deburr before hand stropping. 5) Final Hand Stropping on leather loaded with 1 micron diamond paste to polish the apex of your Knife and remove the burrs created in the sharpening process. 6) Measurement of the sharpness with the Edge on Up Sharpness tester. 7) Final clean up and wipe down with isopropyl alcohol to remove residues. 8) 100% satisfaction guarantee! All for $1 per blade plus $1 per inch of edge (serrated blades, $2 per inch). So an 8" knife is $9, a 6" knife is $7, and so on. What are you waiting for? Call or text 828-337-7836 to make your appointment! Join our mailing list Email First Name Last Name Subscribe Thanks for subscribing!

Caring For Custom Knives Custom Heirloom Knives Deserve A Little Extra Love! High-quality knives deserve high-quality knife care, a little better care than the $10 "Chefs Knife" you pick up at the big box store. In particular, the finely finished wood handle won't survive even one trip through the dishwasher. A customer has asked me to offer some pointers to get the most out of their new custom knife. This list may be amended, but it's a good starting point! And PLEASE practice knife safety! Get Safety Tips HERE. 1- Use an Appropriate Cutting Board I can't stress enough the importance of THIS statement. Don't use glass, stone, or ceramic cutting boards. Don't use your granite countertop. Appropriate cutting boards are made from wood, bamboo, silicone, or plastic. These materials will provide a solid surface to do your cutting without damaging the fine slicing-edge of your knife. I've seen many glass or stone cutting boards, and even ceramic tiles used as cutting boards in the past few years. Even granite counter tops! While they might make handsome additions to the kitchen counter, but they're deadly to a keen edge. Just don't, please. One last point here. When I sharpen your knife, the cutting edge of your knife is far less than one micron wide. Scraping that ultra-fine edge sideways across the cutting board will ROLL the edge, dulling your knife. Please don't use your knife for a scraper, or at least use the spine!! Your fine knives are not pry bars, screwdrivers, box cutters, or can openers. Read about cutting boards HERE! Don't go near the dishwasher! 2- Keep Your Knife Sharp Here's a sticky point. If you know how to sharpen, do it regularly. If you don't, have your sharpening done professionally. Please don't take a custom knife to one of those $3.00 drag through "miracle sharpeners" as seen on TV. and double PLEASE, don't use the electric device on the back of a can opener to sharpen your knives. The best of them grind too much steel too fast and overheat your edge. The worst take big, faceted gouges out of your knife edge. Both are bad juju. If your custom blade is a Keith Nix Knife, I'll sharpen it free, forever! Even if you sharpen your own knives, a professional tune up from time to time is recommended. I can restore your blades to their proper geometry for maximum keenness and edge retention. Don't go near the dishwasher! 3- Wash Right After Use, By Hand Sometimes a quick rinse and dry after dicing vegetables is enough. After working with meat, a bit of soap or detergent and hot water is better, and dry with a kitchen towel. This is all the daily Care necessary if your knife is made of stainless steel. If your blade is carbon steel(ask your maker) a light coating of vegetable oil will help prevent corrosion. Please don't use an abrasive sponge on your knife. Most of them will leave micro scratches on the surface of your blade, and prematurely erode the finish on your handle. Don't go near the dishwasher! 4- Dry With an Absorbent Towel Even stainless steel will rust eventually. Water and chlorine help speed that process along, as will the acids from the foods you cut. A quick wipe with a kitchen towel or a paper towel will eliminate the potential for nasty red spots on your blade. Don't go near the dishwasher! 5- Store in a Knife Block or Magnetic Strip When knives are stored, so they don't bump and vibrate into each other, they stay sharper, longer. The handle finish lasts longer, and the blades pick up fewer incidental scratches and chips. Store knives properly, please. Don't go near the dishwasher! 6- Handle Care If your custom knife has a wood handle, it becomes more important to hand wash and dry and avoid the dishwasher. There is to my knowledge, no finish I can put on a handle that will withstand the dishwasher. Please, please, Hand wash and dry your custom knives. Once a month or so, use a little paste wax or furniture polish to restore the finish of your wood. NEVER USE CUTTING BOARD OIL, please. That stuff is mineral oil and perfect for protecting a cutting board, but it will destroy the finish on your custom knife! And that isn't covered under warranty. Learn how handles are made, attached, and finished HERE! Don't go near the dishwasher! 7- Special Note for Sheath Knives Please, NEVER store your sheath knife in its sheath for prolonged periods. Leather is tanned using various chemicals, acids, tannins, and other compounds that can negatively react with your knife's steel or handle finish. Sheaths from thermoplastics such as Kydex form a very effective moisture barrier, preventing water from evaporating. Store your knife unsheathed, but keep knife and sheath close to each other. Don't go near the dishwasher! 8- Special Notes For Carbon Steel Kitchen Knives Carbon steel knives deserve a special mention here because of their susceptibility to corrosion. Many chefs prefer carbon blades for their exceptional hardness and ultra fine grain. In a nutshell, they take a slightly keener edge and may keep it a little longer in a kitchen setting. And cared for properly without fail, a carbon steel blade will develop a somewhat protective patina that many find beautiful over time. So, ALWAYS dry your carbon steel knife. If you've been cutting acidic foods (citrus, tomatoes, onions, garlic, to name a few), immediately wash and dry your knife. Before storing, a thin coating of food safe oil can help protect the steel. Don't go near the dishwasher! Learn About Knife Design HERE! Knife Sharpening Q&A HERE! Kitchen Knife Buying Guide ​ PLEASE DO NOT 1- Leave Your Knife in the Sink- ever 2- Put Your Knife in the Dishwasher 3- Store Loose in the Utensil Drawer 4- Cut on your Countertop, stone or glass 5- Don't go near the dishwasher! I believe all these points are self explanatory after the suggestions above. Be SAFE, have fun, cook healthy, and keep your fingers curled! In case you weren't counting, I said "Don't go near the dishwasher!" nine times, this makes ten. Yes, it IS that important! As always, feel free to email me at keithnix@bellsouth.net, or call/text 828.337.7836. I'm also available on Facebook, Instagram, and Messenger.

Cutting Board Choices Use And Tips For The Kitchen Your Cutting Board Can Either Protect Or Damage The Edge Of Your Custom Knife Choosing The Right Board Material Is The Key! Taking appropriate measures to maintain your customized knife is critically important to ensure its longevity. Practicing proper habits when it comes to washing, rinsing, drying, and storing the knife will go a long way in maintaining your knives well. Opting for cutting boards made of softer materials like wood or bamboo can help prevent any unwanted wear and tear. Following these guidelines can help ensure that your knife stays in top condition for a long time to come. These simple adjustments can help your custom knife maintain its sharpness and durability for years to come. Read on for some solid tips regarding cutting surfaces. ​ Cutting Boards and Knives-- When considering the selection of a cutting board, there are a ton of options available in the market. Each material, including wood, bamboo, plastic, silicone, and rubber, is characterized by its unique set of features and advantages that address distinct needs. Maple wood is a highly recommended choice for everyday use due to its durability and resilience to constant use. It offers a smooth surface for your knife and is less prone to developing knife marks. Alternatively, bamboo is an eco-friendly option that grows quickly and is renowned for its strength and durability. Moreover, it is gentle on your knife blade and naturally resistant to bacterial growth. Plastic cutting boards offer a suitable solution for heavier tasks, such as cutting meat, poultry, and fish. Their ease of cleaning and sanitization, as well as a range of colors that can help avoid cross-contamination by designating specific colors for specific food types, make them highly practical. Silicone cutting boards are flexible and lightweight, making them easy to store and transport. They are also heat-resistant, making them ideal for use as trivets or pot holders. Rubber cutting boards are distinguished for their non-slip properties, making them perfect for use on wet surfaces. They are also gentle on knife blades and do not develop deep grooves or scratches. When selecting a cutting board, it is important to consider safety features. Non-slip rubber feet or a mat under your board are crucial to ensuring that it remains securely in place during use, preventing accidents, and keeping the board stable. A high-quality cutting board is indispensable for both professional chefs and home cooks. It should provide a stable and safe platform for your prep work. A good board should be easy to clean and sanitize, and it should not dull your knife blade. By choosing the appropriate cutting board that meets your needs, you can guarantee that your prep work is safe, efficient, and enjoyable. TI P- Place a da mp towel or nonslip mat under your board if it tends to slip around. Please don't try to dice or chop a moving target! TIP- Avoid cross-contamination when using your boards. Use separate boards for meats and veggies, or wash in between. Don't risk illness! Cutting Board Materials-- Boards can be made from almost anything, from lumber to bamboo, plastics, stone, rubber, or glass. Each material has its own properties, look, feel, ability to be sanitized and cleaned, and specific interaction with your custom knife. Please Say NO! to Glass, Stone, Steel, Ceramic Tile-- Whether you are an amateur chef or an experienced professional, selecting the appropriate cutting board material is a critical consideration that can significantly affect the longevity and sharpness of knives. While materials such as glass, steel, stone, and ceramic may appear sturdy and durable, they can, in fact, cause great harm to the sharpness and overall life of knives. To retain the optimal condition of one's knives, it is recommended to opt for cutting boards made of softer materials such as wood, rubber, or plastic, which are less likely to cause damage to the blades, resulting in less frequent sharpening. By choosing the appropriate cutting board material, one can ensure the longevity of their knives, as well as a more efficient and enjoyable food preparation experience. ​ Say YES! to Wood-- If you are in search of a cutting board option that is both eco-friendly and protects your knife edges, investing in a high-quality wooden board crafted from sustainable hardwoods is an ideal choice. This type of board is an excellent option for everyday use and promotes an environmentally responsible approach to meal preparation, ultimately minimizing carbon footprint. Additionally, wooden boards offer natural antimicrobial properties that help to keep food safe and hygienic, making them a practical choice for any kitchen. Hardwoods such as maple, cherry, or walnut are great choices when selecting the right type of wood for your cutting board. Softwoods such as pine or spruce require extra maintenance and should be avoided. Although end grain type butcher block boards may be slightly more expensive, their beauty and durability make them a wise investment. Maintaining the hygiene of your board is essential, and sanitizing it with a combination of 3% hydrogen peroxide and water is an excellent option. If you notice any stains on your board, a mixture of kosher salt and half a lemon can be used to remove them effectively. Coating your board with mineral oil, walnut oil, coconut oil, or other food-safe oils is vital to ensure its long-lasting performance, allowing the oil to soak into the wood. You can also use a commercially prepared board or butcher's block conditioners for this purpose. Never soak, and always avoid putting your wooden boards in the dishwasher. Instead, wash them by hand with a soft cloth or sponge and use regular dish soap. Rinse well and dry promptly to maintain their pristine condition. These simple tips will help you keep your wooden cutting board in excellent condition, ensuring it remains a valuable asset in your kitchen while promoting an eco-friendly approach to meal preparation. ​ Important Tip: We highly recommend that you avoid using mineral oil or any other cutting board/butcher block conditioner on the handle of your personalized knife. While regular oiling is a great way to preserve the quality of wood or bamboo boards, it's important to remember that both butcher blocks and cutting boards lack a protective finish. Unfortunately, these oils, in particular, have the potential to liquefy and ultimately harm the protective finish on your handle. We recently had a patron who learned this lesson the hard way, and we want to ensure that you don't have to go through the same experience. So please, take extra care when it comes to maintaining your personalized knife, and always err on the side of caution. ​ Say YES! to Bamboo Boards-- Whether you are an amateur or a professional chef in search of a cutting board that is both eco-friendly and sustainable, bamboo boards may be a prime option to consider. With advantages similar to wooden boards, bamboo cutting boards are not only easy to use and maintain, but bamboo is a rapidly growing and renewable resource that is as strong as its wooden counterpart. Furthermore, owing to their natural resistance to bacteria, bamboo cutting boards are a hygienic alternative for food preparation. Maintaining a bamboo cutting board is a nearly effortless task, as it can be cleaned with hot, soapy water, similar to wooden cutting boards. If you desire a cutting board that is both durable and environmentally friendly, bamboo cutting boards are a fine choice. ​ Maybe? Plastics-- Plastic cutting boards have emerged as a popular and pragmatic option for food preparation. These boards offer a cost-effective solution that provides a durable and hygienic surface for food preparation. They are very easy to clean and sanitize, making plastics a good choice for raw meat. They are available in various sizes and colors, making them lightweight and easy to handle. Unlike wooden boards, plastic cutting boards are non-porous, which renders them impervious to food odors or bacteria. Moreover, they dishwasher safe, which can't be said about wooden or bamboo boards. In addition, they are resistant to warping and splintering, making them a safe option for wet operations. Furthermore, plastic cutting boards come in varying thicknesses, with thicker high-density polyethylene (HDPE) boards providing a sturdy work surface, while thinner ones can be conveniently folded to create a funnel for loading vegetables into a pot or blender. Thus, with all these benefits, plastic cutting boards are a viable choice for both home cooks and professional chefs alike. YES, TO R UBBER? For a Cutting Board?-- Rubber cutting boards have gained immense popularity within professional culinary settings due to their superior features. In comparison to traditional wooden or plastic boards, rubber cutting boards are considerably softer, which allows them to be gentle on knife edges and significantly reduces the likelihood of dulling. Additionally, rubber cutting boards are non-porous and non-absorbent, making them extremely easy to sanitize and an ideal choice for prep work. The non-absorbent nature of the rubber material also prevents the accumulation of harmful microorganisms and bacteria, ensuring a safe and hygienic food preparation environment. As a result, it is not surprising that rubber cutting boards have become the go-to choice for many professional chefs and cooks. TIP-- To save undue stress on the fine edge of your custom knife, scrape meats and veggies from the cutting board with the SPINE of your blade rather than the edge. In summary, use wood, bamboo, rubber, or plastic cutting boards. Maintain and sanitize them correctly according to their material. Avoid cross-contamination! Never use a board made of stone, glass, steel, or ceramic, as they are highly abrasive and harder than your knife. More FREE Learning! Caring for Custom Knives Knife Safety Tips How I Sharpen Your Knife Kitchen Knife Design Kitchen Knife Bu ying Guide ​ Order Your Custom Knife from Keith Nix Knives Shop Now! Sign Up For The Keith Nix Knives Newsletter! Click HERE! keithnixknives@gmail.com 828-337-7836 Thanks for reading, Keith Keith Nix Kniv es

Knife Safety Tips Custom Knife Safety In The Kitchen Or Field How To Handle Knives Safely Kitchen Knife Safety Begins With You Common sense and not-so-common tips to help you and your loved ones stay safe in the kitchen. From using the right size custom knife for your job to using an appropriate, stable cutting board , here are a few ideas to help you prevent injury in the kitchen! Sharp knives can be dangerous if mishandled or used haphazardly! I f it has been quite a while since you had your knives professionally sharpened, remind yourself how to handle knives and save your skin! The simple fact that they perform as they are supposed to sometimes startles even seasoned users. The truth is, no tool in the typical kitchen can cause harm as quickly as a knife. Follow these tips and gentle reminders to exercise caution when using knives! 1)-Choose the right size knife for your job. For instance, if you're peeling potatoes, a paring knife will suit the task better than a chef's knife. If you're cutting large cuts of meat into smaller pieces, a larger chef's or utility knife would be the right choice. And always use knives that feel comfortable, are not too heavy, and with a handle that provides a solid grip. 2)-Always use a stable cutting board or other flat surfaces. Cut food on a flat surface so it stays in one place. Place a damp towel or nonslip mat under your cutting board if it tends to slip around. Don't hold food in your hand while you cut it. Always keep it on the cutting board to avoid having your knife slip and hurt you. And the hand NOT holding the knife? Curl your fingers back away from the knife's edge, and let the cheek of the blade ride on your knuckles. Fingertips get the brunt of injuries! Please don't use glass, ceramic, stone, or steel cutting boards. (Learn about cutting boards HERE) 3)- Wash knives immediately after use. Don't soak your knives with other dishes. Too many times, folks forget there's a dangerous instrument in that soapy water and cut themselves fishing around for something. Wash and dry your knives right away. Use caution when rubbing the blade with a sponge or towel! Store knives safely in a block, magnetic strip, sheath, or shield. Keep all knives FAR from the reach of small children! ​ 4)-Always pick up knives by the handle. Simple, really, but effective in accident prevention. 5)-Never hand a knife to someone. Lay the knife down, and let the other person pick it up. Or follow the Scout rule for passing a knife: "The receiver should get a good grip on the knife and then say "thank you" to indicate that they have a grip on the knife when taking it. The giver should never let go of the knife until the receiver says "thank you" even if the receiver tries to pull it away." This "thank you" is the signal that the other person has complete control of the blade. 6)-Wear a glove when appropriate. For example, a cut-proof glove on your "chicken holding" hand can save some stitches or worse if you're deboning a chicken. Don't try to catch a dropped knife. DUH! Just let it fall to the floor. Wash it off in the sink and continue your task with ten fingers! 7)-PAY ATTENTION. Lack of attention or a short lapse is probably the primary cause of most knife accidents in the field and the kitchen. Don't let your mind drift from the task in front of you! ​ Our knives are far and away the most used tools in the kitchen, especially for people in food service and back-of-house jobs. That environment is hot, fast, hectic, and cramped. Be safe back there, my friends! ​ More FREE Learning! Local Knife Sharpening. Make Your Appointment! Why Does The Steel Matter? ​ Order Your Custom Heirloom Knife from Keith Nix Knives Shop Now! keithnixknives@gmail.com 828-337-7836 ​ Thanks for reading, Keith Keith Nix Kniv es

Keith Nix Knives Video The Carolina Photojournalism Workshop I had the privilege of being selected by one of fifteen UNC School of Journalism students who journeyed to Black Mountain on May 9, 2022. Their mission was to produce a distinctive short film that features a noteworthy resident of Black Mountain and Western NC within a tight six-day timeframe. From the CPJW website: "Since 2004, a group of multimedia students from the University of North Carolina travel to these unique locations with a group of professional coaches to produce a documentary website in a week. Students immerse themselves in the lives of the area’s people, and work 24/7 on a video production that gets publicly screened on the final night. The stories are also published online to continue to provide an intimate cultural record for the public." I had the pleasure of working with a talented young man named Cooper Metts in my NC knife shop that week. He dedicated a significant amount of time to creating the Keith Nix Knives Video displayed below. It brings me great joy to share it with you now. Thank you, Cooper, wherever you may be!

Knife Steels, Stainless, Carbon, and Tool Steels High C arbon, Stainless, Tool Steel, CPM Steels Steels Are As Different As The Jobs They Do! WHAT STEELS ARE AVAILABLE AT KEITH NIX KNIVES?- We offer nine different steels at Keith Nix Knives. Included are A2, D2, CPM M4, AEB-L, 14C28N, CPM MagnaCut, 52100, 80CRV2, and 26C3. The performance of a knife is greatly influenced by the type of steel used in its construction. Some steels are easier to sharpen, while others are tougher, harder, or hold an edge better. In my shop, I choose steels based on their potential hardness, ease of sharpening, toughness, availability, and affordability, with a few exceptions. However, the final result also depends on the heat treatment, profile, bevel grind, and sharpening technique. No steel is perfect in every category, as some excel in strength, edge retention, stain resistance, or sharpenability. I may add more steel options in the future, but it will be done at a slow pace. If your favorite steel is not listed, feel free to contact me and we can work together to find a solution. Don't forget to check out our Heat Treating Terms guide! A2 Tool Steel-- A2 steel is a solid choice for those who make knives, tools, and dies, and it can achieve full hardness without the need for water or oil quenching. The steel is made up of 1% carbon, 5% Chromium, 1% molybdenum, and 0.4% vanadium. The Chromium and Molybdenum increase the steel's hardenability, while vanadium helps to maintain the grain structure small. A2 steel's 5% chromium content further enhances its edge retention and hardenability compared to regular carbon steels. When quenched, A2 steel can achieve a hardness level of over 64Rc, making it an ideal material for knife and tool making. Custom knives are tempered to 58-60Rc to ensure that they are strong enough to withstand everyday use. However, a slight increase in hardness to around 62Rc can improve edge retention without significantly reducing the steel's toughness. To enhance its hardness and strength even further, A2 steel undergoes cryogenic treatment at Keith Nix Knives. This treatment involves soaking the steel in a liquid nitrogen bath at cryogenic temperature (-320F) immediately after austenitization, but before tempering cycles begin. Cryogenic treatment helps refine the steel's microstructure and increase its wear resistance by eliminating "retained austenite. Keith Nix Knives offers A2 steel in Black Mountain, which is a testament to the steel's popularity and usefulness. All the knives on our menu can be made from A2 steel, ensuring that customers have access to the best tools for their needs. Learn more about A2 steel at Knife Steel Nerds AEB-L Stainless Razor Steel-- At Keith Nix Knives, we carefully researched and analyzed before ch oosing AEB-L steel as our "house" stainless steel for knives. AEB-L steel is a great choice for knives due to its excellent properties like high potential hardness, strength, toughness, and good stain resistance. It is easy to sharpen too. In the past, stainless steel chef's knives had a bad reputation for being weak, soft, and unable to hold an edge. The reason for this was that manufacturers used 420 series stainless steel with only 0.3% carbon, which made it unsuitable for high-quality knives. Although it was easy to shape, machine, and polish, it just didn't get hard enough for a knife. Uddeholm from Sweden developed a new stainless steel specifically for razor blades about a century ago. This steel had to be very hard (62 HRc or above), able to be stamped to shape with dies, and have a fine carbide structure suitable for razors. The first iteration was AEB, but it had large chromium carbides, resulting in an unsuitable toothy edge for razor blades. Later, AEB-L was developed, which was the perfect balance of all the necessary attributes, such as fine blanking, edge retention, hardness, ultra-fine carbides and grain structure, and good stain resistance. AEB-L steel is widely used in the knife-making industry today and is one of the most exceptional stainless steels available. At Keith Nix Knives, we pride ourselves on providing our customers with the best quality knives, and that's why we use AEB-L steel as our favorite for kitchen knives. We offer this steel at our Black Mountain store, and we can create knives of all shapes and sizes from this remarkable steel. With AEB-L steel, you can be sure that you are getting a knife that is beautiful, strong, sharp, and dependable. From Devin Thomas at devinthomas.com:​ "Few know what AEB-L steel is, and those that do, only have heard that it is similar to 440B or 440A. The only similarity between AEB-L and 440B or 440A is the amount of carbon. The fact that AEB-L has only 12.8% chromium by weight compared to the 16-17% in 440A and 440B makes the steels quite different. AEB-L is more similar to a stainless 52100 than 440A. A copy of AEB-L called 13C26 is made by Sandvik. AEB-L naturally forms what is called K2 carbide, the harder of the two chromium carbides, compared to the K1 carbide, which is formed in steels such as 440C. The K2 carbide is about 79 on the Rockwell C scale, compared to 72 for the K1 carbide. Through proper heat treatment, AEB-L has fine, evenly distributed K2 carbides. AEB-L lies almost perfectly on what is called the "Carbon Saturation Line," which means that all of the carbides formed are precipitated carbides, not primary carbides like are formed in 440C, and there is more carbon and a similar amount of Chromium in solution as compared to 440C. Primary carbides are very large. So, through a balanced composition, AEB-L has excellent toughness, edge retention, workability, ease of sharpening, and ease of polishing." Learn more about AEB-L at Knife Steel Nerds D2 Tool Steel-- D2 tool steel is a type of steel that is highly resistant to wear and has great popularity among tool and die makers. It is often used to create cold-work stamping dies and durable blades that are sharp and long-lasting. What sets D2 apart from other types of steel is its impressive hardness, abrasion resistance, and ability to maintain its edge. It can also resist staining to a degree, making it a reliable choice for tools that may come into contact with liquids. To keep D2 steel sharp, it is recommended to use diamond stones because of its high abrasion resistance. Additionally, cryogenic treatment can enhance its performance by increasing its hardness, slightly improving its edge retention, and boosting its abrasion resistance. Although D2 is not the toughest steel available, it is ideal for creating smaller blades requiring good edge retention. For those interested in working with D2 steel, options are available at Keith Nix Knives in Black Mountain. Learn more about D2 Steel at Knife Steel Nerds. 52100 Carbon Steel-- 52100 is a well-known steel in the industry due to its exceptional hardness, toughness, and strength. It is often used for bearing steel and bearing races, and it has a fine grain structure and an ability to take an extremely keen edge. The steel contains approximately 1% carbon and 1.5% chromium, which enhance its hardenability and reduce grain size within the steel. Bladesmiths have been using 52100 steel to create high-quality knives for years. Nowadays, custom knifemakers can find flat bars of 52100 that are suitable for stock removal. Tests have shown that 52100 steel is exceptionally tough due to the low volume of small, evenly distributed carbide throughout the steel matrix. When compared to other highly-regarded knife steels, such as O1, 1095, 440C, D2, and A2, 52100 outperforms them all. If corrosion is not a concern, 52100 steel makes an excellent choice for hard-use outdoor knives or in the kitchen when a non-stainless option is preferred for a slightly keener edge. You can find 52100 steel available at Keith Nix Knives in Black Mountain. Visit the Shop NOW to get a custom knife made in 52100 steel. Learn more about 52100 steel at Knife Steel Nerds. 26C3 Carbo n Steel-- If you're a chef or professional cook who prefers carbon steel knives, you might want to consider 26C3 steel. This type of steel is known as 26C3 in the US and 1.2002 in Germany, and it is produced by Uddeholmstrip for razor and scalpel blades. It has an extremely fine grain and carbide microstructure, making it highly pure and capable of extreme hardness. This steel can reach over 67HRc as-quenched while still maintaining good toughness. Compared to other mainstream steels such as 1095, O1, M2, A2, and PSF27, 26C3 offers better toughness. It can hold a sharp edge and resist chips, even at high hardness. This steel is similar in composition to Hitachi White #1, a well-known Japanese blade steel. However, it's important to note that 26C3 is not stainless and requires proper maintenance to prevent rust and pitting. With proper care, it can develop a beautiful patina over time. These high hardness carbon steel kitchen knives are tough and durable, making them an excellent choice for chefs who demand the best from their knives. If you're looking for a very hard, fine-grained custom chef's knife, Keith Nix Knives has 26C3 steel available in Black Mountain. You can reach us at 828-337-7836. Also, check out "How to Care For Custom Knives" to learn more about the care of carbon steel knives. Learn more about 26C3 at "Knife Steel Nerds." CPM MagnaCut Knife Steel-- CPM MagnaCut steel is a type of stainless steel that is specifically designed for crafting knives. It was developed by Dr. Larrin Thomas, a metallurgist and author of the blog Knife Steel Nerds, and the book "Knife Engineering", which is a great resource for makers. This steel has exceptional wear and stain resistance, as well as high hardness and toughness, making it an ideal choice for knife-making. The steel is produced using the CPM process of steelmaking and Vanadium and Niobium are added to it, which help keep the grain and carbide size small, resulting in increased toughness. This also leads to the formation of small and extremely hard carbides that significantly increase edge retention in this high-performance steel. CPM MagnaCut steel is more expensive than other types of stainless steel but it offers a unique and balanced set of properties that cannot be found in any other composition. You can find CPM MagnaCut steel at Keith Nix Knives in Black Mountain. Learn more about CPM MagnaCut at Knife Steel Nerds HERE! Learn about CPM technology here! ​ CPM M4 High Speed Steel-- CPM M4 is a type of high speed tool steel that is known for its exceptional edge retention and toughness. It has been used in the machining industry to make taps, drills, hobbing cutters, and other cutting tools. It is made up of 4% chromium, 4% vanadium, 5.25% molybdenum, and 5.5% tungsten. The high carbon content in the steel makes it harder and enables the formation of carbides, making it a high-performance steel. The addition of 4% chromium improves hardenability, tensile strength, and edge retention. 4% vanadium ensures that CPM M4 has a fine grain size, which increases wear resistance and edge retention with extremely hard, fine carbides. The high 5.25% molybdenum content enhances the steel's strength and machinability. Tungsten enhances wear and corrosion resistance. This steel has a fine grain and carbides that make it exhibit excellent strength and toughness, thanks to CPM technology. It is an excellent choice for making high-quality knives, especially when stain resistance is not a concern. You can purchase CPM M4 steel at Keith Nix Knives in Black Mountain. Learn more about CPM M4 HERE! 80CRV2 Steel-- 80CRV2 is a type of low-alloy carbon steel that has small amounts of chromium and vanadium. It shares similarities with the old 1095 Cro-Van, which was used by K-Bar years ago. The addition of these elements gives it unique properties during and after heat treatment. By adding 0.8% chromium, the steel's "hardenability" is increased. This means the steel can be hardened without using water, which can cause blades to become stressed. Instead, a fast engineered oil is used, which is less stressful and more effective. The chromium addition also helps to prevent grain growth during the heat treatment process. Vanadium is added at 0.2%, which is not enough to affect edge retention. However, it provides enough vanadium carbides to pin grain boundaries and hinder grain growth. 80CRV2 is ideal for hard-use blades. Its toughness is better than 1095, O-1, or D2, especially at higher hardness. It is easy to sharpen but has low edge retention. As a carbon steel, it is prone to rust staining. However, those who prefer carbon steels are already aware of this. You can find 80CRV2 steel at Keith Nix Knives in Black Mountain. THE STEELS: Text What is Cryogenic Treatment? And What Does It DO?? In simple terms, Cryogenic Treatment is a process where a knife is further cooled down to -320F after being quenched to room temperature from its austenitizing temperature, according to specific standards and protocols for that steel. This extended cooling process helps to convert any retained softer phase Austenite to harder and stronger Martensite, resulting in improved knife steels. To achieve this, we use liquid nitrogen for an hour or even overnight after the quench. Following this, the tempering cycles are performed as usual. At Keith Nix Knives, we ensure that your custom knives receive the very best heat treatment possible, and cryogenic treatment is a proven method to enhance their performance. Learn more about Cryogenic Treatment of knife steels HERE. Dr Larrin Thomas wrote a three part article on his blog "Knife Steel Nerds" about cryogenic temperatures and the effect on knife steels. If you're a knife steel nerd like me, click on the link! Dr Larrin Thomas explains cryo treatment of knife steels Join our mailing list Email First Name Last Name Subscribe Thanks for subscribing! THE STEELS: Welcome

The Free Learning Series From Keith Nix Knives We've gathered all the best of the Free Learning articles from Keith Nix Knives here for your convenience! Posts about kitchen knives, outdoor knives, knife safety, and maintenance, from the Black Mountain Knife Works to you! Each article will have its own link and description under the subjects listed below. Just find the subject you want to read about and click to check out the available articles! Or Check The Keith Nix Knives Store Now! Sharpening Knives - Reliable local Knife Sharpening is hard to find, and Professional Knife Sharpening even harder. This group of articles relates how I do it, and how you can get better at it. Click to read! Kitchen Use and Safety - Caring for quality custom knives, safety tips, how to keep your knives sharp longer. Tips and tricks for the kitchen knife user! Click here to learn more! Knife Steels And Heat Treating - The heart of any custom handmade knife is the steel it is made from. The heat treatments and grinds applied to that steel become the "personality" of that custom knife. Keith Nix Knives takes the time to maximize the properties most important to your knife and its use. To learn more about knife steels and heat treating, click here! Knife Making Information - Articles of interest about the processes required to take pieces of steel and wood and put the two together to make a useable and beautiful knife. Learn More HERE!

Sharp Knife Verified Quantifying Sharpness III, Quality Control Video! Scroll down for three short videos of the Edge On Up Sharpness tester in use. To continuously improve product quality, we have to measure where we're at today . When I got the Fixed angle sharpening systems I now have, the quality of sharpened edges at Keith Nix Knives jumped dramatically. Now that I can directly measure the sharpness of those edges, I expect to squeeze every last drop of keenness out of my sharpening protocols. Quality Control and Continuous Improvement- If you want a sharp knife, you must know how to get there and understand WHEN you are there! There is no quality without quality control; if there is, it is BLIND LUCK. As a knifemaker, I must control time and temperature in all heat-treating processes as I make your knife. Quality management is controlling manufacturing processes! When I create your fine wood handle, I have to maintain flatness and parallelism early in the process to ensure the handle fits the tang without gaps. The pin holes must be drilled perpendicular to the handle's flats and reamed to a very tight tolerance. We measure and control many variable temperatures, dimensions, material conditions, and surface finishes to ensure the best custom knives we can make, with an eye to continuous improvement. So I was overjoyed to find the Edge on Up sharpness tester and the BESS Scale of sharpness. Now we can measure shar pness because sharpness is necessary for a knife. Here are three videos Sarah shot for me on 7/22/2022. The top one of her beautiful but dull Keith Nix Knives petite chef's knife shows it cutting the certified test media, requiring nearly 550 grams of force, or 550 on the BESS scale (Brubacher Edge Sharpness Scale). This is the starting point and shows how dull the knife had become. Quality Assurance, Quality Control, and Sharper Edges begin by establishing a baseline to be sure our products meet customer expectations! The second video shows the knife after sharpening with 80 to 2000-grit bonded diamond stones and finishing with a 3000-grit ceramic, all at 16.5 degrees per side. This part of the test was conducted BEFORE stropping. Force to cut was reduced to 198 grams or 198 BESS scale. This is precisely the routine I now use on every knife I sharpen. Sharp, but NOT sharp enough. This is Quality Control in action. Video three shows the same knife with no further sharpening on the stones, but after stropping on a hard-backed denim strop loaded with Flitz chrome polish, and then a smooth leather strop loaded with 1-micron diamond paste. The knife received only THREE strokes per side on each of the two strops. The stropping took the knife to 156 BESS, right in the middle of the sweet spot I'm looking for. This is Quality Assurance! Findings- This little test reveals a couple of surprises. 1- Knives sharpened to high grit finishes at FIXED angles and deburred well with each stone, need very little stropping, but they do need stropping to reach maximum sharpness. 2- To get the most from your sharpened edges, light stropping as a "deburr and polish" finishing step is a necessity. 3- Sarah didn't think her knife was particularly dull. It was awful. 4- OVER STROPPING is a very real phenomenon, at least for me. I will be KEENLY aware of that in the future. 5- The Edge on Up Sharpness Tester has a place in our shop going forward. We cannot improve or control what we don't measure! Now we can rest assured you're getting the SHARPEST KNIFE we can offer! Sharp Knife Verified! ​ The quality management process should make evidence-based decisions and work toward incremental improvements in every area of a business. Customer satisfaction is very important, but we believe making the best knives we are capable of making is our highest goal! Your complete satisfaction and long-term patronage is our NUMBER ONE goal! To Make an Appointment for Knife Sharpening Near you, Click Here! More FREE Learning: Quantifying Sharpness I Quantifying Sharpness II Knife Safety Tips Order Your Custom Knife From the Keith Nix Knives Shop Now! Sign Up For The Keith Nix Knives Newsletter! Click HERE! keithnixknives@gmail.com 828-337-7836 Thanks for reading, Keith Keith Nix Kniv es

About Keith Nix Black Mountain Knife Maker Knife Store Near Asheville North Carolina Knife Maker, Knife Sharpener Near You Professional Knife Sharpening Service Who Is Keith Nix? WHO IS KEITH NIX? Greetings! My name is Keith. I am the owner and knife maker at Keith Nix Knives. As a local Black Mountain Knife Maker, I operate both a Knife Maker's Shop and Knife Store in the area. My specialty lies in crafting affordable, top-notch custom kitchen knives and handmade outdoor blades for a variety of purposes, including hunting, fishing, and all-purpose belt knives. My inventory includes an array of fine slicing blades, pig skinners, custom carving knives, boning knives, and heavy-use bushcraft blades. THE BEGINNING-- Several years ago I came across a beautiful piece of Birdseye Maple and thought it would make a great knife handle. But, I didn't have a knife to go with it. After some searching, I found a company that sold pre-drilled, shaped, and hardened knife blanks, which meant I could add my own handle and sharpen it, and have a knife I "helped" make! I ordered a blade from them, but unfortunately, it wasn't up to par. The bevels were off-center, the pin holes were uneven, and it wasn't very hard. It wasn't suitable for everyday use, or eye pleasing enough to carry ​ That $20 blade actually led me to start making knives as a hobby. Being a machinist, I knew I could do better. I researched knife-making techniques, materials, and designs. I invested a lot of money in equipment and machines, and even made a few poorly ground blades before finally getting the hang of it. Now, I'm producing and testing my own knives from raw materials. Calling Black Mountain Home My childhood in Black Mountain was surrounded by the beauty of the Southern Appalachian Mountains and valleys, which became my playground and played a significant role in shaping my character. I hold dear to my heart the memories of chasing after stunning waterfalls, fishing in the creeks, and discovering the natural wonders of this region. I've lived and worked here my entire life and wouldn't have it any other way. My home, store, and knife shop are situated just five miles to the west of the Eastern Continental Divide, nestled in the breathtaking Blue Ridge Mountains. The water from the Swannanoa River here in the Valley eventually flows into the Gulf of Mexico via the Tennessee and Mississippi Rivers. On the other side of the Continental Divide, the Catawba River flows southeastward, finally entering SC, becoming the Wateree River, then the Cooper River, and flowing on down to the Atlantic Ocean at Charleston, SC. I run my small knife shop and store on the land where I spent my childhood. Nestled on the north side of the Swannanoa Valley, my home offers great views of High Windy, High Top, Lakey Gap, Sunset (Miami) Mountain, and the Swannanoa Mountain range to the south and east. We are approximately twelve "crow miles" south of Mount Mitchell, the highest peak in the eastern United States. ​ Access to the Blue Ridge Parkway is nine miles from home. I can be in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park in an hour, Craggy Gardens in less than an hour, and Shining Rock Wilderness in an hour. Easy access to these wonders has helped shape who I am. To this day, the natural beauty of Western North Carolina sometimes takes my breath. ​ Custom Hand Made Knives-- I take pride in crafting each blade myself using high-quality steel purchased from reputable dealers, who are known well in the knife community. I only work with suppliers who can provide factory certifications and details about the specific "Melt" of the steel I use. You can trust that none of my knives are made with scrap, recycled, or mystery steel. As a member of the NC Custom Knife Maker's Guild, The Better Business Bureau, and The Swannanoa Valley Chamber of Commerce, I am committed to providing top-notch craftsmanship and ethical business practices. DEEP ROOTS-- My parents and three of four grandparents grew up here in Western North Carolina. So did most of my aunts, uncles, cousins, and siblings. Many of us are still here in Black Mountain and Buncombe County, along the Blue Ridge, and my children are also here. As a child and an adult, we have enjoyed picnics, hikes, and rides along The Blue Ridge Parkway. Now my young grandson is calling Buncombe County home. My roots in Western North Carolina are long and deep. That alone guides me to provide the best products and services possible. My client is likely to be a friend, or referred by a friend, a neighbor, former schoolmate or coworker, or even a family member, or maybe one person away from knowing my family or me. Because of this, you will get the best I have to offer! ​ "Keith was great to work with! Not only was he quick and professional, his work with our broken knife was fantastic! We will use him in the future, and I highly recommend him!" -Lori Ezra Maille of The Black Mountain News wrote an excellent article about Keith Nix Knives. Please read it HERE! Cooper Metts of the CPJW shot a video of my little shop. View it HERE! Knife Making Articles HE RE! You can visit the gallery of past knife-making projects HERE. Click Here For Bran d New Stea k K nives I've always appreciated a good knife that does its job well, whatever that job may be. I constantly strive to make a great 8-inch custom chef's knife , a handmade nakiri , a hunter, or a skinning knife in a price range that regular folks like you and I can afford. Background Working with steel and other metals for most of my adult life as a manual and CNC machinist and tool maker, the jump to custom knives was a natural choice. I'm constantly refining my "process" as if I'm still in a production atmosphere; for example, making or heat treating a batch of five or ten knives is more cost-effective and less time-consuming "per knife" than making them one at a time. Developing and refining my skills also saves time and improves quality, as does having and choosing the right tool to perform the task at hand. I am constantly studying the science of metallurgy to understand better what each element in a particular steel composition does to the finished product. I've studied deeply the steels I choose to offer for knives, and I chose these for their BALANCE of properties, such as toughness, ease of sharpening, potential working hardness, and for stainless steel, stain resistance. At Keith Nix Knives, we offer three high-carbon steels, three stainless steels, and three tool steels from which to choose for the home kitchen or professional environment! Included are AEB-L, 14C28N, CPM MagnaCut, CPM M4, A2, D2, 52100, 80CRV2, and 26C3. I've tested heat-treating protocols for the steels I use and offer to you. I've done all this in my ovens, and I know my ovens' idiosyncrasies. They produce results comparable to the people whose teachings have helped me achieve my goals. I am set up to do cryogenic treatment of all the knives I make, because it has been proven that a soak at -320F (yes, 320 BELOW ZERO) makes every steel stronger, harder, and more abrasion resistant to support sharp keen edges. I use the knowledge I've gained to produce the very best knives possible for folks in Black Mountain and the surrounding area. And I'll share what I know with those interested! ​ Looking for custom knives that are handmade with precision, quality and affordability? Look no further than Keith Nix Knives! Led by the head grinder and Black Mountain native, Keith, these custom kitchen and outdoor blades are top-notch, perfect for everything from hunting to paring, and even fine slicing. Shop now and find the perfect blade! HOME PAGE Learn About Heat T reating HERE! Learn About Liquid N itrogen HERE! "The Norton" Fillet/Boning/Camp Kitchen Knife Keith Nix Knives also offers Knife Sharpening Services and edge and tip repair to individuals and businesses in Asheville, Weaverville, Black Mountain, Old Fort, and Marion, NC. Call or text to book your knife or make your appointment! Knife Sharpening Q&A HERE Knife Sharpening In Black Mountain Learn How I'll Sharpen Your Knives HERE! Check The Knifeworks Store N ow! Crafted By Hand, Informed By Science! keithnixknives@gmail.com 828-337-7836 "I've already put some good use in from working in a professional kitchen with my cleaver and 10" chef knife; also, love the quality, balance, and sharpness. Keith let me pick the wood in for the handles, talked me through blade sizes, and also the edge type that was right for me. All of my coworkers are just as in love with the product as I am, as well I've already been asked by family and friends where to get the high quality craftsmanship that I received. The handles are beyond beautiful, the blades are beyond sharp and strong, and I love how great Keith is with making sure the product meets the person and need for the knife. All around, better than anything I've ever bought from major knife brands!" -Gavyn Join our mailing list Email First Name Last Name Subscribe Thanks for subscribing! Sharpening Services Click here for professional, precise, knife sharpening. Please, PLEASE, don't hesitate to call or text before ordering a product or service online. In order for me to customize your work for you, we need to talk. Email works too, just talk to me! 828-337-7836 keithnixknives@gmail.com

Quantifying Sharpness Using a Knife Sharpness Tester Knife Sharpening Is Now a Measurable Process! You Can't Improve What You Don't Measure! Want Sharper Edges? Hair Shaving Sharp Edges? Me Too!! You should expect professional results from the Professional Knife Sharpening Service near you. Since I began making and sharpening custom knives, I'm most satisfied with the final edge I put on the blades. My system and tools give precise, repeatable results and shaving sharp edges. BUT, these edges have in the past been tested using anecdotal measurements. For example, "does it shave hair? How easily?" or "Will it slice phonebook paper? How smoothly?" I wanted an instrument that would permit "Quantifying Sharpness"! I have a problem with the way knife sharpness is traditionally tested. Shaving hair or slicing paper only answers a "yes" or "no" quality question. As a machinist, I'm used to being able to measure features with instruments that have a resolution of one ten-thousandth of an inch or less. Unfortunately, there's been no such thing as a standard measurement for knife sharpness that everyone can relate to. This means that there's no real way to ensure the quality of a knife's sharpness beyond simply testing it by shaving a nearly naked arm or slicing paper. While this may give you an idea of how sharp the knife is, it's not a quantifiable measurement that you can share with others. That's why I was excited to discover the Edge On Up sharpness testers. The company uses a standard called the Brubacher Edge Sharpness Scale (BESS) to measure the sharpness of knives. The BESS was developed by Mike Brubacher, the owner of Edge-On-Up, and has become one of the most user-friendly methods for determining the sharpness of a knife. This little instrument uses a certified and calibrated synthetic test medium, a "wire" (some calibrated plastic) similar to a heavy fishing line, and a weight scale with 1 gram of resolution. The knife is pushed gently into the test media being held by the sharpness tester until the edge severs the "wire". The instrument reads the force required to cut the wire in grams, and that is the BESS score. What's more, the BESS score correlates directly to the edge radius (yes, radius. No edge can be sharpened to a perfect apex). So if your sharpened edge rates 85 BESS, it tells you the edge radius of that blade is 85 nanometers (a human hair diameter is 60,000-100,000 nm, or .002-.004") The BESS knife sharpness scale in the picture above gives comparative results. For example, a block between 250-350 on that scale is notated as "new high-end cutlery edges". Another block between 150-200 says "utility razor blade". Another roughly between 25-75 is noted as "double edge razor blades". The knife I carry every day for a "box opener" needs a touch-up; it just checked 208. To check out a quick little video from "Sharpening Supplies" of how simple this instrument is to operate, just click HERE! Measuring the actual s harpness of sharpened knives on the BESS Scale helps me inspect, control, and refine my sharpening process to the point where I'll be comfortable saying I'm delivering your custom kitchen knives that are as sharp as anyone in the country. Now, I know I'll never get to the 50-gram level of a razor blade, and you shouldn't want me to. There are a couple of reasons. One, knives are much thicker than razor blades, with far more obtuse primary and secondary bevels, and that negatively affects the force required to cut the media. Two, an edge as keen and sharp as a razor would not hold up well in the kitchen, in the sheath, on the cutting board, or in the pocket. I think the right place to be for kitchen knives will be around the 135-175 mark (VERY sharp utility razor range), and probably about 150-200 for hard-use outdoor knives. (Incidentally, that knife in my pocket at 208, still shaves hair, but it pulls too much!) I'm pleased to address knife sharpening again in the quest to improve quality overall. I settled on my sharpening system, stones, and strops early on in the shop setup. Since then, I haven't really looked at it because I was slicing phone book paper and comfortably shaving arm hair, and the process is by hand and FAST!! If Quantifying Sharpness gets us a few more points on the sharpness scale, I think we'll all be winners! To learn more about "How I Sharpen Your Knife", CLICK HERE! To Make an Appointment for Knife Sharpening Near You, Click Here! ​ More FREE Learning: Knife Sharpening Q&A HERE! Measuring Sharpness Part II Quantifying Sharpness Part III Knife Safety Tips Order Your Custom Knife From the Keith Nix Knives Shop Now! Sign Up For The Keith Nix Knives Newsletter! Click HERE! keithnixknives@gmail.com 828-337-7836 Thanks for reading, Keith Keith Nix Kniv es